The reason why pottery from 552 A.D.on wards has survived the centuries because potters learned that in order to preserve their work they had to coat the pottery with something that would not allow the elements to destroy the artwork. Glazed pottery items were found in Egyptian tombs dating back 8,000 B.C. Pottery glaze started as a way to preserve the pottery, to make permeated surfaces impenetrable. Since the beginning, master potters have come up with several variations of glaze and glazing techniques. Here are a few suggestions that could make your pottery glaze go a little easier: for further details, click here.
- Often the least favorite work for many potters, it is the most important because it protects their work from the elements. If you want the consistent coating to the pieces, it is important to remove any burrs. Burrs will create inconsistencies in the pottery and allow areas of the ceramic exposed even after firing. These areas are minute and after firing will expand because the clay and glaze bond and shrink when heated. Make sure the area is well free of burrs, and you will have a fluid form for the glaze application. Silicon carbide paper is best for pottery.
- While burrs in the pottery can be problematic, divots will cause just as much harm for the work. When turned pieces are left too wet, the water will ripple the surface of the clay and create divots that may not show up immediately after the work is complete. Make sure you inspect the pieces for ‘holes’ in the surface. Burrs can be removed with fine grain sandpaper or brushes, holes or divots can’t be filled in because the clay will not join properly with turned pottery. Holes need more care when it comes to glazing. click here for related information.
- Sloppy glazing will ruin a work because it causes areas of the pottery to have a thinner membrane of glaze which causes areas to pull apart during firing. When fissures form in the glaze it is possible to recoat the areas.However, since the bonding of glaze happens during the heating process, it is likely the new varnish coat will not bond to the heated glaze and the second layer will be apparent after a second firing.
- Interior verses exterior glazing. It is best if you glaze the interior of the pottery before glazing the surface. The coating on the inside of the pottery will be difficult if you are unable to ensure the rim of the work has a complete layer. Make sure the excess glaze at the bottom of the work is removed to allow for even coating.
- The exterior is a focus of glazing, and you should take care when applying glazes. Always inspect the piece for in consistence in the work that will interfere with the glaze application. It is vital that the entire piece has a seamless coating of glaze. Any area that has a sharp edge will cut the glaze as it is fired.
- The application of glaze, dip, poured, or brushed on can only be determined by the potter. Each of the applications is right, but only the potter knows which they are most comfortable using. Try each of them to decide which is best.